This boom brake is manufactured by Dutchman (model #BB750) and two places you can purchase it are West Marine and Defender.com

To mount the boom brake I added a boom bail aft of the rigid boomvang. I purchased the bail from Charleston Spars, this two piece bail cost about $35.00. The welded bail, left top of the picture costs about $81.00. Charleston Spars phone number is 704/597-1502.
You will need to drill two holes in the boom and tap them with a 1/4-20 tap. If your bails and boom vang bail forward of this are riveted you will have to drill the rivets out and tap those holes also. I was lucky in that mine already had machine screws.

My original plan was to attach pad eyes thru the cabin top in front of the jib sheet track. After staring at it awhile I came up with a cleaner (no new holes in boat) way to do this. What I did was purchase Schaefer eye pad backup plates ( Schaefer # 78-26, West Marine # 163840 ) drill 1 end out to just over 3/4" and attached these to the toggle pin of the aft shroud, inside the toggle. To that I used a snap shackle to attach the boom brake fixed line.These Schaefer plates are 1/8" thick, 1 1/4" wide and about 4.5" long. After you drill them out you still have a 1/4" of material left around the toggle pin hole.

The line next to the green stripe is fixed, it is attached to a snap schackle at each end and connected to the plates I attached to each aft shroud toggle. The line is 9/6", the size of the line contributes to the friction of the brake, the larger the line the more drag. At present I am supporting the bottom of the brake with a piece of bungie to hold it clear of the mainsheet. I played with the placement of the boom bail by using a piece of line tied around the boom and attached to the brake. I found that if I went much further aft with the bail the fixed line down to the shrouds would bind and stop the boom as it went far out to port or starboard. Dutchman covers this in their installation notes.The line next to the red stripe is the tensioning line which goes aft to the cockpit. The blocks for this line are Garhauer's #30-13 with a SWL of 2000lbs. They cost $16.50 each, Garhauer's phone number is 909/985-7513.

In this photo I have the tensioning line block attached along side my block for my boom vang. To get these two lines closer to the deck I am considering attaching them to the bottom of the pin that is the pivot for the rigid boomvang. Right now you can see a empty schackle attached there.

The tensioning line needs a lot of tension to be effective, to maintain this tension I added an additional rope clutch so I could free up the winch for other uses. I mounted this by drilling two holes in the rope clutch pad and threading them for 5/16" machine screws. The brake has a tensioning knob on it and I have found with the fixed line size I am using I am leaving that adjustment tighened.

The first time we used the brake downwind in 16 knots on San Francisco Bay, after some tensioning adjustments, it worked great. We can now jibe the boat, never leave the helm nor tend the mainsheet. It would be best to tend the mainsheet so as it comes across the sheet doesn't hang up on anything but I wanted to know if it I could do it this way. Matter of fact it worked so well we jibed 2-3 times in a row just for the fun of it. If you have any questions contact me at bill@martinellistudios.com